Dries Van Noten AW 2022-23

a la une, Fashion



Totally moved and in love with this unbelievably beautiful Dries Van Noten collection inspired by femininity and exuberance. There is a contrast between the ultra-feminine and the toughness of menswear, It’s erotic, it’s opulent, it’s just outstandingly beautiful.

As you know Dries Van Noten introduces a line of perfumes and cosmetics this season and themes are shared with the designs for his new perfume bottles.

A source of inspiration comes from Italian icons like the singer Mina (La Luna Diamante), the architect and artist Carlo Molino & Marcello Mastroianni in his rendition of “Paradiso Perduto” – “Nostalgia del future”.

Van Noten reflects upon the erotic discoveries in polaroids found after the death of the architect and artist Carlo Mollino eroticising women in the mise-en-scene he created on a tiny set, creating total intimacy and exploring the ambiguity between the muse and the artist, revealing what went on behind closed doors. The designs reveal the play of hide and seek with slits, pointed shoulders, strict waists and sharp lines, cut-outs and transparency. Imagine a new skin created by porcelain and tortoise prints, leather and velvet. Cocooning shapes are cut with a thin sharp chrome belt, jewels are bordering on the excessive. Bomber jackets are embroidered and shoulders are padded with piping accentuating the silhouettes.

Diane Pernet

Photos by Casper Sejersen