by Dr. Marco Tassini
In an era where tradition and innovation converge, Jaeger-LeCoultre once again redefines the limits of haute horlogerie with the REVERSO TRIBUTE ENAMEL ‘SHAHNAMEH’ series. This limited edition collection, comprising four exquisitely hand-decorated timepieces, each available in an edition of just 10 pieces, celebrates the profound legacy of Persian art and literature while reaffirming the enduring spirit of the iconic Reverso.
The Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Shahnameh’ is a masterful narrative in miniature. Drawing its inspiration from the revered Shahnameh—the monumental Persian epic composed by Ferdowsi, which has, for centuries, chronicled the history, legends, and heroic deeds of ancient Persia—this series pays homage to one of the world’s greatest literary and artistic achievements. The Shahnameh, often referred to as the Book of Kings, encapsulates a rich cultural heritage that resonates with themes of power, valor, and transcendence. Within the Reverso Tribute series, these themes are reinterpreted through the medium of fine watchmaking, bridging the gap between timeless artistry and modern technical expertise.
At the heart of this collection lies the legacy of Persian miniature painting. This art form, which blossomed from the 13th century onwards and reached its pinnacle in the 16th century, is renowned for its intricate detail, vibrant palette, and the delicate interplay of light and shadow. The Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Shahnameh’ embodies these qualities, with each caseback meticulously hand-decorated using techniques that require no less than 85 hours of labour. The artisans of the Métiers Rares™ atelier at Jaeger-LeCoultre employ a combination of enamel miniature painting, grand feu enamelling, paillonnage, and guillochage to recreate a miniature masterpiece on a surface scarcely larger than 2 cm².
The Intricate Craftsmanship
The process begins with the selection of a detailed illustration from the illustrious 16th-century Shah Tahmasp edition of the Shahnameh, a work celebrated for its opulent miniatures and complex compositions. The chosen image is then painstakingly transposed onto the caseback through the traditional technique of enamel miniature painting. This is augmented by paillonnage, whereby tiny fragments of 24K gold leaf are precisely cut and applied by hand, adding a luminous texture that recalls the rich gilded backgrounds of Persian manuscripts.
The front dial, meanwhile, is treated to a layer of grand feu enamel applied over a carefully executed hand-guilloché base. This creates a sunrayed pattern that not only enhances the dial’s visual depth but also serves as a counterpoint to the caseback’s intricate details. The resulting interplay between the dial and the caseback transforms the reversible case into a dual canvas of artistic expression.
Each model in the series is powered by a manually wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 822, a movement that delivers impeccable timekeeping with a power reserve of 42 hours. Encased in an 18K white gold case, each timepiece marries precision engineering with the rich tradition of decorative arts. The design pays tribute to the original Reverso, a watch conceived in 1931 for the polo-playing gentleman, which has evolved over decades while maintaining its distinctive Art Deco lines and reversible case.
A Testament to Exceptional Skill
The Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Shahnameh’ is a remarkable display of technical and artistic mastery. The painstaking process of miniaturising a 48 x 32 cm artwork onto a 2 cm² surface is a feat of precision that highlights the exceptional skill of the artisans. Every element, from the delicate application of gold leaf to the layering of translucent enamel, has been executed with unwavering attention to detail.
The result is a series of timepieces that transcend mere functionality. They are veritable works of art, each one a celebration of Persian heritage and a bold reinterpretation of the Reverso’s storied legacy. The fusion of traditional craftsmanship and advanced horological engineering creates a dynamic dialogue between the past and the present, offering a new perspective on the role of art in timekeeping.
- Persian miniature painting: requiring 100 hours for the creation of each caseback
- Métiers RaresTM mastery: 4 refined crafts – enamel miniature painting, grand feu enamelling, paillonnage and guillochage
- Limited edition: offering 4 timepieces of 10 pieces each
- Reference: Q39334S1 to Q39334S4.
An Ode to Persian Heritage and Polo
The Reverso, with its storied past in the sport of polo, has always been more than just a functional instrument. It is a symbol of refined elegance and utilitarian design, born out of the need to create a timepiece that could withstand the rigours of high-speed polo matches. Yet, its evolution has allowed it to become a canvas for artistic innovation. The The Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Shahnameh’ series is no exception. In reinterpreting the heritage of Persian miniature painting, the collection also echoes the ancient origins of polo itself, which trace back over 2,000 years to Persia. Here, the cultural reverence for the horse – an emblem of nobility, courage, and grace – is intricately woven into the fabric of the timepiece, connecting the legendary narratives of the Shahnameh with the sportive spirit that inspired the Reverso’s creation.
Models of the Collection
Each of the four models in the series bears a unique design that reflects a particular narrative from the Shahnameh’s legendary cycle. For instance, one model, designated “Siyavush Plays Polo before Afrasiyab,” draws directly from an illustration housed in the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. This piece features a dial rendered in vivid blue, with a sunrayed guilloché pattern created through seven hours of meticulous work, complemented by a caseback that showcases the miniature painting and paillonnage techniques.
Another model, “Faridun Tests His Sons,” is adorned with a herringbone guilloché pattern and translucent grand feu enamel in a soft blue hue. This design captures the narrative of King Faridun’s legendary trial, symbolising the virtues of leadership and filial loyalty.
A third variant, “Saam Comes to Mount Alburz,” features a wavy guilloché pattern beneath translucent green grand feu enamel. This model encapsulates the poignant tale of Saam and the mythical reunion with his son Zal, underscoring themes of forgiveness and redemption.
The final model, “Rustam Pursues Akvan,” is distinguished by a lozenge guilloché pattern and rich green grand feu enamel that harmonises with the vibrant vegetation depicted in the original miniature. Each variant not only offers a unique visual experience but also embodies a different facet of the enduring Persian saga.
SIYAVUSH PLAYS POLO BEFORE AFRASIYAB
(MET, NEW YORK) Illustrated Folio No.180, attributed to Qasim ibn ‘Ali, painted circa 1525-30
FARIDUN IN THE GUISE OF A DRAGON TESTS HIS SONS
(AGA KHAN MUSEUM, TORONTO) Illustrated Folio No.42, attributed to Aqa Mirak, painted circa 1525-35
SAAM COMES TO MOUNT ALBURZ
(MUSEUM FÜR ISLAMISCHE KUNST, BERLIN) Illustrated Folio No.63, attributed to unknown artist and supposedly commissioned by Sultan Muhammad, painted circa 1535
RUSTAM PURSUES AKVAN, THE ONAGER-DIV
(AGA KHAN MUSEUM) Illustrated Folio 294, attributed to Muzaffar ‘Ali’, painted circa 1530-35
The Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Shahnameh’ is a remarkable display of technical and artistic mastery. The painstaking process of miniaturising a 48 x 32 cm artwork onto a 2 cm² surface is a feat of precision that highlights the exceptional skill of the artisans. Every element, from the delicate application of gold leaf to the layering of translucent enamel, has been executed with unwavering attention to detail.
The result is a series of timepieces that transcend mere functionality. They are veritable works of art, each one a celebration of Persian heritage and a bold reinterpretation of the Reverso’s storied legacy. The fusion of traditional craftsmanship and advanced horological engineering creates a dynamic dialogue between the past and the present, offering a new perspective on the role of art in timekeeping.
The Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Shahnameh’ series is a noble tribute to a majestic work of art and literature. It honours the origins of the Reverso and the timeless appeal of Persian miniature painting, reinterpreting these elements through the lens of contemporary haute horlogerie. This collection, with its four distinct models, stands as a testament to the enduring power of art to inspire and transform. It encapsulates a legacy of cultural richness, technical innovation, and uncompromising aesthetic excellence, a legacy that continues to define Jaeger-LeCoultre as the Watchmaker of Watchmakers™.
As each piece in the series finds its place among discerning collectors, it also invites new generations to discover the beauty of a tradition that has thrived for centuries. The Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Shahnameh’ is a celebration of time, of that of historical density, that time of the arts, and the eternal dance of creation, a sublime convergence of past and future, rendered in the language of light and colour.
