CHANEL time…and time again

EDITO, Horology

On the cover – J12 BLEU Caliber 12.1 38 MM

Set with 12 brilliant-cut diamond indicators. (~0.06 carat)

Visible through a sapphire crystal case-back, the 12.2 Caliber is adorned and equipped with an oscillating mass presenting a perfect circle, a CHANEL Watch signature.

With its matte blue ceramic finish, blackened bezel and glossy varnished indicators, the J12 BLEU Caliber 12.1 embodie the very essence of this collection. The ceramic bezel is adorned with a baguette motif for a distinguished elegance. This new iconic pieces are equipped with the self-winding Manufacture Caliber 12.1 movement, which is chronometer certified by COSC* and has a power reserve of 70 hours and respectivly 50 hours . It is produced by the Swiss Kenissi Manufacture, co-owned by CHANEL, co-owned by CHANEL.

By Dr. Marco Tassini

There are moments when time doesn’t simply pass, it poses, dazzles, and declares itself a thing of beauty. In Chanel’s latest horological creations, time is not just measured, it is styled, sculpted, and whispered in hues of blush and sapphire.

But time, too, can shimmer. With the J12 Bleu Sapphires, it dazzles. Limited to just twelve exceptional duos, this pairing – Mini and Maxi – pushes contrast to the extreme. The 42mm and 28mm models gleam after more than 110 hours of meticulous gem-setting. With over 350 baguette-cut sapphires between them, the watches are a spectacle of radiant blue, their brilliance heightened by matte blue ceramic and blackened steel. Inside, the self-winding Caliber 12.1, COSC-certified, breathes, a masterpiece in motion.

The narrative deepens with the J12 Bleu Caliber 12.2 and 12.1, each equipped with Chanel’s signature circular oscillating mass and a sapphire caseback revealing its heartbeat. Water-resistant up to 200 meters and boasting a 70-hour power reserve, these pieces merge performance with poise. Diamond markers and ceramic bezels etched with baguette motifs underline a house that knows how to whisper luxury, never shout it.

J12 BLEU Caliber 12.2, 38 MM<br />
Matte blue highly resistant ceramic and black-coated steel case, Sapphire crystal caseback with “LIMITED EDITION” mention, Caliber 12.1: self-winding Manufacture movement, chronometer-certified by the COSC*<br />
Power reserve: ~70 hours, Water-resistance: 200 meters
J12 BLEU Caliber 12.2, 38 MM

Matte blue highly resistant ceramic and black-coated steel case, Sapphire crystal caseback with “LIMITED EDITION” mention, Caliber 12.1: self-winding Manufacture movement, chronometer-certified by the COSC*
Power reserve: ~70 hours, Water-resistance: 200 meters

* Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute

J12 BLEU SAPPHIRES Limited Edition of 12 and The J12 BLEU 42 MM SAPPHIRES is equipped with the COSC* chronometer- certified self-winding Caliber 12.1 Manufacture movement, dipped in a black finish, specific to Haute Horlogerie pieces. Photo Marco Tassini for the edge mag
J12 BLEU SAPPHIRES

Limited Edition of 12

Playing with extremes, the CHANEL Watchmaking Creation Studio has imagined this watchmaking duo that presents two J12 watches, one with a 42 MM case and the other with a 28 MM case.

The J12 BLEU 42 MM SAPPHIRES is equipped with the COSC* chronometer-certified self-winding Caliber 12.1 Manufacture movement, dipped in a black finish, specific to Haute Horlogerie pieces.

Power reserve: ~70 hours, Water resistance: 50 meters 

Diameter: 42 mm, Blue sapphires: 170 baguette-cut blue sapphires (~17.01 carats), Diamond: 1 brilliant-cut diamond (~0.16 carat) 

This exceptional Mini & Maxi pair is adorned with blue sapphires that illuminate the bezel, dial and bracelet. An infinite source of brilliance, the bright blue of the natural stones contrasts with CHANEL’s matte blue ceramic. More than 110 hours of gem-setting within the CHANEL Manufacture were required to embellish these two J12 cases, with 170 baguette-cut sapphires for the 42 MM and 196 baguette-cut sapphires for the 28 MM. The blackened steel bezels and crowns enhance the depth of the blue of the ceramic by highlighting these subtle nuances.

And finally, the crescendo: the J12 Bleu Diamond Tourbillon, a limited edition of fifty-five pieces. Here, haute horlogerie becomes poetry. A solitaire diamond turns within the tourbillon cage, its brilliance set against the cool gravity of matte blue ceramic. Time is mesmerised.

J12 BLEU DIAMOND TOURBILLON<br />
Limited Edition of 55, photo by Marco Tassini, the edge mag
J12 BLEU DIAMOND TOURBILLON

Limited Edition of 55

Matte blue highly resistant ceramic and steel, Sapphire crystal caseback, 34 baguette-cut blue sapphires (~4 carats), 

Tourbillon cage set with 1 solitaire diamond with an exclusive cut (~0.18 carat), 

non-screw-down crown set with a brilliant-cut diamond (~0.16 carat)

Caliber 5: CHANEL Manufacture mechanical movement with manual winding with flying tourbillon

Power reserve: ~42 hours

The Première Charms Blush, a limited edition that speaks in monochrome elegance, is adorned in black with a steel chain bracelet interlaced with supple leather. It swings with six lacquered charms spelling out the iconic CHANEL name, rendered in the house’s signature nail polish tones, transforming a simple glance at the wrist into a gesture of identity.

PREMIÈRE CHARMS BLUSH

Limited Edition

Adorned in black and with a steel chain bracelet interlaced with a black leather ribbon, the Première takes on a bold graphic allure, accented by the six charms featuring the letters of “CHANEL” whose hand-lacquered shades recall those of the House’s nail polish.

Carats and materials are indication only. The values are non-binding.

PREMIÈRE CHARMS BLUSH Limited Edition, Chanel Haute Joaillerie , photo Marco Tassini for the edge mag
CODE COCO BLUSH<br />
Limited Edition, photo Marco Tassini for the edge mag
CODE COCO BLUSH

Limited Edition

The CODE COCO BLUSH bracelet is embossed with the CHANEL logo. The six famous letters adorn a pink calf leather bracelet with an iridescent aspect, lined and covered in black leather. Inspired by the 2.55 handbag, Mademoiselle’s unmistakable clasp secures it on the wrist. One of the two black lacquered dials is set with a white diamond. (~0.10 carat)

Carats and materials are indication only. The values are non-binding.

PREMIÈRE CUFF BLUSH<br />
Limited Edition, photo Marco Tassini for the edge mag
PREMIÈRE CUFF BLUSH

Limited Edition

As if immersed in a camaieu of pink and red lipsticks, the PREMIÈRE CUFF BLUSH is an ode to femininity dear to Gabrielle Chanel. Its black-coated steel chain bracelet is made up of seven rows interlaced with leather straps, each donning pink or purple hue. At its heart, the octagonal case and streamlined black lacquered dial express the purity of time.

Carats and materials are indication only. The values are non-binding.

From there, the story unfolds into the Code Coco Blush, a playful nod to the legendary 2.55 handbag. Here, the clasp becomes a keeper of secrets, securing an iridescent pink calf-leather bracelet lined in black. A single diamond shimmers from one of two black lacquer dials, a wink for those who look closely. This piece doesn’t merely rest on the wrist; it embraces it, with the same effortless chic that defined Mademoiselle Chanel herself.

With the Première Cuff Blush, Chanel paints femininity in bold strokes. A cuff of interwoven black chain and leather ribbons, each tinted in shades of pink and violet, wraps the wrist in a passionate tribute to lipstick reds and glossy sophistication. At its heart lies the octagonal case, stark and streamlined, evoking the purity of design that remains the soul of Chanel’s watchmaking.

Time and time again, Chanel shows that to wear a watch is to celebrate moments, and some moments are worth framing in lacquer, leather, and light.

by Dr. Marco Tassini, 2025

art by Alexandra Mas 

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